Skin types and pigment types: About skin aging and care

Skin types and pigment types head

Skin types and pigment types: About skin aging and care

The skin is the largest organ of the body and consists of three layers: the epidermis, dermis and subcutis. As we age, the structure and elasticity of the skin changes, leading to skin aging. However, this process is complex and is influenced by both internal and external factors. In addition, different skin types react differently to these influences, which means that the speed and visibility of skin aging vary.

The epidermis is the outermost layer of the skin and offers protection against harmful influences. The epidermis contains pigment cells (melanocytes) that determine the skin color and help protect against UV radiation. The dermis contains collagen and elastin fibers that give the skin firmness and elasticity. The dermis contains blood vessels, sweat glands and sebaceous glands. The subcutis is the deepest layer, which consists of fatty tissue and provides insulation and protection against mechanical forces.

The aging process takes place in several steps:

  1. Breakdown of collagen and elastin: this causes loss of firmness and elasticity, leading to wrinkles and sagging skin.
  2. Loss of moisture: Older skin retains less moisture, leaving the skin feeling drier and rougher.
  3. Decrease in fat cells: this gives the skin volume and a 'full' appearance. As we age, this volume decreases, especially around the eyes and cheeks.
  4. Pigment build-up: Exposure to UV rays can cause pigment spots and an impure skin tone.

Skin aging consists of intrinsic and extrinsic factors. Intrinsic aging is the natural aging process, driven by genetics and hormonal changes. Extrinsic aging is a form of aging caused by external factors and can be influenced to a certain extent. The process of skin aging brings with it visible changes such as wrinkles, sagging skin, pigment spots and a dry skin texture.

As mentioned, intrinsic factors are part of the natural aging process. The fact that some people get wrinkles at a younger age or have thinner skin depends on genetic factors. The genes determine how quickly the skin ages and how sensitive it is to external influences. As we get older, the body produces less collagen and elastin, two proteins that keep the skin firm and elastic. This production decreases from about the age of 30. Less collagen leads to thinner and looser skin, while the loss of elastin ensures less resilience. Incidentally, collagen can decrease more quickly in women after the menopause.

Slower cell division is also part of the aging process. In younger people, the skin renews itself regularly. As we age, this process slows down, making the skin look duller and less tight.

In addition to intrinsic factors, extrinsic factors also play a role. A number of factors that influence the skin condition are:

  • UV radiation: sun exposure breaks down collagen and elastin. This leads to wrinkles, loss of firmness and pigment spots. The aging process due to UV radiation is often called photo-induced aging.
  • Smoking: Smoking accelerates the aging process by reducing blood flow to the skin, leading to less oxygen and nutrients. It also creates more free radicals, which damage skin cells. It also breaks down collagen and accelerates wrinkle formation. The most common wrinkles in smokers are the so-called 'smoker's lines'. Often seen on the upper lip due to repetitive movements of the mouth.
  • Diet and lifestyle: A diet rich in antioxidants, healthy fats and proteins can better protect the skin against harmful influences and slow down aging.
  • Sleep and stress: Insufficient sleep and chronic stress increase cortisol levels. Cortisol is also called the stress hormone. Long-term elevated cortisol levels can cause damage to the skin, among other things. The skin becomes thinner because collagen is broken down and bruising can occur regularly because the skin repair process is slowed down.
  • Pollution: Air pollution contains harmful substances that cause oxidative stress, which damages skin cells and accelerates the aging process. Exposure to pollution can contribute to wrinkles, pigment spots and irritation.

Skin types

Dry skin

Dry skin often feels tight and can flake or become red. It produces little sebum, which means it loses moisture quickly.

Dry skin occurs worldwide, but is more common in cold, dry climates such as Northern Europe, North America, and certain areas of Asia and Russia. The cold, dry air in these regions contributes to a greater likelihood of dry skin.

Oily skin

Oily skin produces excess sebum which can make the skin appear shiny, especially on the forehead, nose and chin (T-zone). This skin is often prone to acne and clogged pores.

This skin type is common in warmer, humid climates, such as parts of Asia (e.g. Southeast Asia), Latin America, Africa, and South Asia. The warm climate stimulates sebum production, which can make the skin oilier.

Normal skin

Normal skin has a good balance of sebum and moisture. Typically this skin type is even, not too dry and not too oily.

Normal skin is found all over the world, but is more of a rare skin type as most people have variations of dry, oily or combination skin. People with normal skin are slightly more common in areas with a temperate climate such as parts of Europe and North America.

Combination skin

This type has both dry and oily areas. Typically, the T-zone (forehead, nose and chin) is oily, while the cheeks are drier.

Combination skin occurs worldwide and is often one of the most common skin types, as climate, seasons and other factors can affect sebum production on different parts of the face.

Sensitive skin

Sensitive skin reacts quickly to external factors such as cosmetics, temperature changes and beauty products. This can lead to redness, irritation and itchy skin.

Sensitive skin types occur on all continents but are often seen in regions with extreme climatic differences (e.g. cold or extremely sunny areas). In Europe and North America there is also a greater sensitivity due to western lifestyles and cosmetic use.

Pigment types (according to Fitzpatrick classification)

  • Type I: Very fair skin, burns easily and almost never tans. Often red or light blond hair and blue eyes. Common in Northern Europe and parts of Russia.
  • Type II: Fair skin, burns easily and tans only slightly. Often blond hair with gray, green or hazel eyes. Common in Northern Europe and parts of Russia.
  • Type III: Fair skin, sometimes burns and gradually tans. Usually dark blond to brown hair, fairly dark eyes. Common in Southern Europe, the Middle East, and parts of Asia and Latin America.
  • Type IV: Moderately pigmented skin, rarely burns and tans well. Dark eyes and dark hair are often characteristic. Common in Southern Europe, the Middle East, and parts of Asia and Latin America.
  • Type V: Dark skin, rarely burns, tans very well. Usually brown eyes and naturally dark brown to black hair. These types are common in Africa, South Asia and parts of Latin America and Oceania.
  • Type VI: Very dark skin, almost never burns. Dark brown to black hair with dark eyes are typical. These types are common in Africa, South Asia and parts of Latin America and Oceania.
    fitzpatrick scale
Skin type classification

Light skin types (type I and II) are more sensitive to sun damage, which makes wrinkles and pigment spots become visible sooner.
Dark skin types (type V and VI) have more natural protection against UV radiation, but can more quickly develop uneven pigmentation (such as hyperpigmentation).

While the natural aging process is inevitable, extrinsic factors can be influenced by, for example, using sunscreen, not smoking, eating healthy and living a healthy lifestyle. Knowing your skin type and its specific needs can help you take targeted steps to optimize your skin care and reduce the signs of aging.